One night earlier this summer, a group of six women filed into a corner booth at Mamo, a Manhattan transplant of the very popular restaurant Mamo Le Michelangelo in the French Riviera. But before they sat down, the queen bee with crown crafted by Drybar, whose vibrant turquoise handbag matched her cocktail dress, asked the host, “And is this where Beyoncé sat?”
The group tittered as they took their seats, which must have simply vibrated with the memory of Beyoncé. You only get connections to celebrities like this—ass to ass—in New York. Soon their wine arrived, a few bottles you could identify as rosé from Provence without even seeing the label, the corset shape of the bottle a signifier of the region. It was Domaines Ott, one of the most classic rosés on the market.